Proper way to remove baffles from stock exhaust on a Harley? 2007 Soft tail custom?
Note…this will NOT work on California bikes, they have built-in Catalytic Converters that can not be removed.
You will need new exhaust gaskets for the cross-over pipe/exhaust bracket. I forget the actual size of the muffler outlet and don’t have a bike at home to measure, I think it’s either 1-7/8 or 1-3/4, this is the size hole saw you will need, and a can of WD-40.
With the muffler ON the bike, look at the muffler outlets, you will see where the baffle ASSEMBLY is welded in. You will need to cut through that weld with a hole on a drill, using LOTS of WD-40 as lube and coolant as you drill. Once cut through, remove the mufflers from the bike and use a long steel rod to beat the baffle assembly out, stick the rod in through the front of the muffler and drive it out the rear. Install new gaskets in the muffler for the cross-over tube and reinstall and tighten clamps.
You "can" get away with no remapping with JUST this change, but it is HIGHLY recommended to add a hi-flo air cleaner and remap the injection. If you change the air cleaner, you HAVE to remap. You will get MUCH, MUCH better performance, and the bike will run cooler.
There is not enough room here for me to add my suggestions for tuning…..email me through my profile here with your regular email address and will can tell you more…..
PROPER TUNING IS ESSESNTIAL FOR TWIN CAMS……ESPECIALLY THE 07-UP O2 SENSOR CONTROLLED INJECTION!!!!!
2005 Harley VROD BUB Jug Hugger Exhaust?
Note…this will NOT work on California bikes, they have built-in Catalytic Converters that can not be removed.
You will need new exhaust gaskets for the cross-over pipe/exhaust bracket. I forget the actual size of the muffler outlet and don’t have a bike at home to measure, I think it’s either 1-7/8 or 1-3/4, this is the size hole saw you will need, and a can of WD-40.
With the muffler ON the bike, look at the muffler outlets, you will see where the baffle ASSEMBLY is welded in. You will need to cut through that weld with a hole on a drill, using LOTS of WD-40 as lube and coolant as you drill. Once cut through, remove the mufflers from the bike and use a long steel rod to beat the baffle assembly out, stick the rod in through the front of the muffler and drive it out the rear. Install new gaskets in the muffler for the cross-over tube and reinstall and tighten clamps.
You "can" get away with no remapping with JUST this change, but it is HIGHLY recommended to add a hi-flo air cleaner and remap the injection. If you change the air cleaner, you HAVE to remap. You will get MUCH, MUCH better performance, and the bike will run cooler.
There is not enough room here for me to add my suggestions for tuning…..email me through my profile here with your regular email address and will can tell you more…..
PROPER TUNING IS ESSESNTIAL FOR TWIN CAMS……ESPECIALLY THE 07-UP O2 SENSOR CONTROLLED INJECTION!!!!!
References :
20yr HD Tech. MMI Grad 1991 and 2009. Factory trained by HD (Buell Certified), Big Dog, American Ironhorse, Titan, and Indian
if you’re the same Robert, I’m the same ‘just me’ and have the same answer as before. if not, here’s my suggestion:
1, you’ll run leaner due to less backpressure and 2, you’ll lose low end response. Even with race tuning ( efi ) or rejetting ( carb ), you can get your air/ fuel mixture back on track, you can’t get your low end response back. The loss of back pressure is like running open drag pipes, which sound good ( IMHO ), and loud, but the torque curve takes a major dip. You’ll encounter a dead or flat spot that will never totally be gone and still remain noticeable. I, and most HD techs, don’t care for the sound of punched out pipes, but it’s not my bike, just giving you the facts. Hope this helps
The only good thing about this is that it won’t cost you much, except for the price of the hole saw though i recommend remapping for the loss of backpressure changes the physics of the exhaust system and a portion of the fuel charge that is coming into the cylinder will also be leaving the cylinder thru the open exhaust valve ( hence the need for backpressure ) causing a leaner running condition than you already have stock ( epa regulations to meet emissions have bikes running lean ) and have you running hotter. As ‘vtwin doc’ stated, it’s a good idea to get a high flow air cleaner and remap the ecm and that’ll be your only expense. You may even in time come to see that you are going to want to purchase some decent slip-ons or full exhaust system, which will again require remapping of the ecm due to the flow characteristics of the exhaust has changed, to get back the low end you lost and for a better sound.
References :
HD Master of Technology 17yrs, Factory trained race and super tuner
Cut and paste time?
From a previous answer:
"There are two easy ways.
The first is to get a hole saw that just fits inside the very end of the muffler. Cut through. Use a rod and push the baffle out from the other end.
The second is to use a carbide burr on an air grinder or Dremel tool.
Cut in the same place. Push out.
Remove the sharp edges.
I’ve done both ways. Sounds good, major loss in back pressure affects performance. I’m not a performance guy, so if I noticed, you know it’s a big change."
This tidbit doesn’t mention, but make the cut just inside the weld.
The carbide burr is easier to work with and is also the finish tool.
A shot of high heat black paint inside the muffler will make it look better and help keep it from rusting.
References :
Been there, done that, changed it twice more.