Archive for the Motorcycle Exhaust Baffles category.

04 R1 with A&R Race Baffles

Stock mufflers rebaffled with A&R race baffles. The mufflers have also been painted flat high temp black.

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xv535 baffles removed

Removed my exhaust baffles sounds better

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degoat and drilled baffles

wow.. sounds much better than stock…

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96 Honda Magna V-4 (stock exhaust with no baffles)

My bike. Has not been rejetted. Plan on getting it done with a new set of pipes.

Bike was in the process of warming up before a little cruise

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Suzuki Boulevard w/Monster Baffles

2005 Suzuki C50T with Vance & Hines pipes and Big City Thunder Monster Baffles.

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Motorcycle

Honda VTR1000. This is how it sounds after installing custom exhaust baffles.

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Venox Baffle Mod.

A brief clip showing the outcome of the exhaust baffle modification on the Kymco Venox

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How do I retard/advance the timing on my '87 sportster?

I've read that I'll need to retard the timing after I do the 1200 conversion. How do I do so? If someone is very experienced on v-twin motorcycle repair, or with this type of rebuild, could you please inform me of everything that you can, about what to expect or be cautious of? indianjohn, here is the specifications of my exhaust pipes, (concerning what size jets I'm going to need): Cycle Shack (slash cut) 1-3/4" head pipes 2-1/2" mufflers, true one-piece construction of 16 gauge tubing, all steel baffles

You should be ok with your timing You can retard about 5 deg but no more it will start to run hot but TDC is TDC so i wouldnt worry to much about it-The idea is stock 883s are advacned pretty far so when you step up to 1200 it may be a bit much on the starter ?? If it dont "kick back"dont worry about it

Turn the plate clockwise to adv Counter to retard

Try stepping up the jets about 3 sizes to start then "read" your plugs but with the extra CCs and the open exhaust its gonna breath a lot harder so get more fuel in there to go with the air

2007 Yamaha R1 Exhaust with Race baffles & no cat

2007 Yamaha R1 Exhaust with Race baffles, Smog Block-offs, and Leo Vince Y-Pipe(Eliminates Cat)

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Motorcycle Muffler Re-Engineering?

I would like to replace the stock muffler with a better looking aftermarket muffler and have some difficult engineering questions.

The bike: Suzuki DRZ-400 Supermoto (single cyl).
New muffler: Yoshimura TRS carbon fible tri-oval. Designed for GSX-R 750.
What I Want (Ideally): -Cut approx. 5" off length of sleeve (to look 'stubby').
The Difficult Part: I'd like the stubby exhaust to be as quiet (or close) to stock and prefer to cancel higher frequencies.

The stock muffler is 4" dia with very thin shell of glasspack and what seems to be a series of staggered opening 'plug' style baffles.
The Yosh muffler is a straight through perforated baffle (approx 2.25" dia pipe) style.

My initial ideas: to restore backpressure and lower dB, fabricate a series of staggered plug baffles (similar to stock) that fit inside the 2.25" Yosh internal baffle. The plug baffles could be interchanged, removed, added, etc to a common spine slipped in at flange.

Professional Advice Appreciated.

Singles are the toughest to quiet down. Without extra exhaust pulses working to cancel each other out, you've got a thumper that's always going to make a big BANG.

That's the main reason why we can have some relatively small muffler systems on twins and multis that are pretty quiet - but the big singles still have bazookas for mufflers.

Currently, with the best minds and technologly in the world working on this issue, here's the options:

Volume equals less noise and more power - larger mufflers are quieter and less restrictive. Increasing diameter is best, but length is important too.

The best baffling and packing system in the world will only reduce sound output by a few dB. The rest is done with volume.

It's the reason Honda and some other manufacturers have been testing twin mufflers on their MX'ers. Less sound without sacrificing power - by doubling the muffler volume.

Weight. Lighter weight mufflers made of aluminum or metal will have a 'ring' to them that adds to the exhaust sound level somewhat. Heavier materials are more dense and don't 'ring' as much.

Backpressure is cool, but too much on the DRZ as a street bike is not a real good idea. Make sure you're not increasing the backpressure by more than what the stock system does.

Without a dyno and some other good (and expensive) diagnostic equipment, it'll be tough to really gauge what you're doing to the power, what jetting changes it'll require, etc.

I'm not saying you shouldn't have fun messing with a few options here - but don't expect to come up with something really earth-shattering. My guess is you'll be able to make a shorty muffler that's either too restrictive, or ear-shattering!

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